We spent the night at Barrisdale bothy, a basic shelter left open for the use of hikers that apparently last saw a lick of paint sometime in the 1950s. A guestbook lay on the kitchen table, including an entry which read, "I"m a scientifically minded person, but I experienced things here which I cannot explain." Tired enough not to care, I curled up on a wooden bunk and lapsed into a dreamless sleep.